The ancient Roman hill of Monte Testaccio, a unique landscape of caves and tunnels, has an intriguing history. This former rubbish dump, made entirely of broken amphorae, now houses a diverse range of establishments, from nightclubs to restaurants. Some places showcase their unique setting, revealing sections of ancient pots, while others have transformed the spaces with modern touches. Among these hidden gems, a deep cave behind door 93 has been reclaimed as an urban aging space for cheese and cured meat by Vincenzo Mancini, who distributes artisanal products from small farms in Lazio.
But here's where it gets controversial... The story of cheese in Rome and Lazio is deeply intertwined with the history of Monte Testaccio. The name 'pecorino', derived from the Latin word for sheep, has become synonymous with a specific type of cheese. However, it was originally a generic term, applicable to countless forms, as it was simply the local cheese. It's only when these cheeses traveled beyond their origins that the need for identification and protection arose, leading to the official recognition of pecorino varieties like pecorino sardo, romano, siciliano, and more.
Vincenzo works with Deroma dairy in Torrita Tiberina, aging wheels of pecorino romano for a minimum of 12 months. The microclimate of the cave, along with the bacterial microflora within its walls, plays a crucial role in developing the cheese's flavor. As the cheese ages, its creamy, sheep's milk character intensifies, becoming sharper and more complex over time. The rounds also develop carefully controlled mold coats, ranging from light brown to dark green.
The neighboring cave is home to the restaurant Flavio al Velavevodetto, and it was here that Vincenzo demonstrated the traditional method of making cacio e pepe. This performance art of sorts showcases how shepherds and innkeepers of the past likely prepared this dish, using their cheese-making tools and daily supplies. The result is a soft, sandy cheese that clings to fresh pasta, creating a unique and delicious texture. It's a simple yet captivating dish, and one that's worth trying at home.
Cacio e Pepe in a Cloth (In un Panno)
Serves 2
Ingredients:
- Salt
- 100g pecorino cheese
- 2 heaped teaspoons of whole black peppercorns
- 1 large cotton cloth (napkin or tea towel)
- 300g fresh tonnarelli or tagliatelle pasta
Instructions:
1. Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil.
2. Grate the cheese using the star-shaped side of a grater to achieve a soft, sandy texture. Avoid using a microplane.
3. Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a heavy object.
4. Prepare the cloth by ensuring it's large enough to gather up the ends and form a bag for shaking.
5. Cook the pasta according to package instructions until al dente.
6. Using a spider slice or tongs, lift the pasta onto the cloth and spread it out slightly to allow some drying.
7. Sprinkle the grated cheese and pepper over the pasta, then gather up the ends of the cloth to form a bag.
8. Shake and rub the fabric to distribute the cheese evenly.
9. Open up the cloth and enjoy your cacio e pepe directly from the cloth if you're feeling adventurous, or transfer it to plates.
10. Serve with a generous pour of wine or water.
And this is the part most people miss... The simplicity of cacio e pepe is often overlooked. It's a dish that celebrates the natural flavors of high-quality ingredients, and when prepared with care, it can be a truly exceptional culinary experience. So, are you ready to give it a try? Don't be afraid to experiment and find your perfect balance of cheese and pepper!
